MM6 MAISON MARGIELA / PITTI UOMO GUEST DESIGNER AUTUMN–WINTER 2025 – January 2025

Black as a whole spectrum of nuances and attitudes, from burgundy to gaffer tape, seen through pieces and textures boasting tradition and flamboyance, in a show happening inside a glass box, in the night that glistens, in the city that’s the fashion capital of a certain way to approach menswear: from the dressy angle.

An exercise in masculine dressing, the MM6 Maison Margiela way - straightforward, item-driven and eminently not narrative - using Miles Davis as a filter.

Tailoring. Sensuality. Shimmer. Lavishness and soberness. A touch of mink, too. Faux mink, of course. A touch of lurex, as well. Worn-out, occasionally.

The idea of the wardrobe entices a systematic iteration of items, with pieces repeated in different materials and surface treatments, suggesting different uses, occasions, ways, shades of masculinity. The suit, the bomber, the trenchcoat, the car coat, the denim jacket and trousers, the taxi driver jacket, the mac. 

Opacity and shine. Man-made, industrial shine. Plastified knit, rubberized and taped textures. Spotlight fading on denim.

Found pieces like the suede perfecto have an immediate feeling. Stars as prints and pagoda shoulders are taken from iconic Miles Davis images as well as the storied DNA of the house. Collar tips. And faux fur. Ladylike fur, the masculine way.

Accessories are just as systematic: square or round toed spazzolato loafers as a nod to tradition; velcro strapped hi-tops as a nod to the brand’s history; trumpet bags and biker cases. Found jewelry. Random trench belts. Modular gloves, in collaboration with Agnelle. Helmets, for motorcycle goers.

A sensual vision of the man as both the subject and the object of desire, with signature insouciance and a blunt Venus in Fur stamp.